Cedar Shingle Siding Installation: Materials, Steps, and Best Practices

Cedar shingle siding gives a home a distinctive natural exterior, but a durable result depends on more than attaching shingles to a wall. Material selection, drainage, weather barriers, flashing, spacing, and fastening all matter. This guide explains how cedar shingle siding installation is typically planned and completed in the United States, what building-code and safety issues to check, and how to maintain the finished siding.

What Cedar Shingle Siding Is

Cedar siding shingles are thin, tapered pieces of wood installed in overlapping courses. Their overlap sheds rain while leaving part of each shingle exposed as the visible finish. Shingles are generally sawn on both sides; cedar shakes are typically thicker and have a more textured, split appearance. The terms are sometimes used loosely, so buyers should confirm the product type, dimensions, grade, and installation instructions before ordering.

Western red cedar and eastern white cedar are common options. Cedar is valued for its appearance and workability, but it is still wood: it can absorb moisture, weather, split, or decay when details and maintenance are inadequate. No wood species or finish makes a wall automatically waterproof. A properly assembled wall uses the siding as a weather-shedding layer over a continuous water-resistive barrier, with careful flashing and drainage details.

Choose the Right Shingles and Finish

Start by choosing a product suited to the building’s exposure, desired appearance, and local availability. Shingles are sold in different lengths, widths, thicknesses, patterns, and grades. Clearer grades generally have fewer visible defects; rustic grades may show more knots or variation. Some products are made for sidewall use, while others are intended for roofing. Follow the manufacturer’s stated application rather than assuming that a roof shingle is suitable for a wall.

Check whether shingles are untreated, factory primed, stained, or otherwise treated. Cedar can be left to weather naturally, but its color changes with sunlight and moisture, and weathering may be uneven. A film-forming coating, penetrating stain, or paint can affect appearance and future upkeep. Use a finish explicitly labeled for exterior wood siding, and follow its surface-preparation and reapplication instructions. Coating all faces and edges before installation, where the product and finish instructions recommend it, can help limit uneven moisture uptake.

Buy enough material for the wall area plus cuts, selection, and future repairs. Waste depends on wall shape, shingle exposure, openings, corners, and the pattern; a simple percentage is only an estimate. Have the supplier calculate coverage using the product’s stated exposure and bundle information. Keep packages dry, off the ground, and protected from direct weather, and allow materials to acclimate as directed by the manufacturer.

Plan the Wall Assembly Before Installation

Before work begins, review local building-code requirements, permit rules, product instructions, and any applicable fire or wind provisions. Requirements can vary by jurisdiction and by the building’s location, height, and construction. The building department can clarify local rules. For a new project, the plans should show how the shingles, weather-resistive barrier, flashing, trim, and any rainscreen fit together as one wall assembly.

Inspect the existing wall for leaks, rot, insect damage, loose sheathing, and uneven framing. Siding should not be installed over a wet or deteriorated substrate. Repair the cause of any water damage first; covering it can conceal a problem and make it worse. Confirm that wall openings, roof-to-wall intersections, decks, and other transitions have suitable flashing and that the bottom of the siding can drain and dry.

Most installations use a code-compliant water-resistive barrier behind the siding. Its seams and connections should be integrated with window, door, and other flashing so water that gets behind the shingles is directed outward. In some assemblies, a drainage space or rainscreen is recommended or required by the applicable code, climate, design, or manufacturer. A rainscreen typically uses furring or another designed spacer to create a path for drainage and drying; it is not a substitute for correct flashing or a continuous water-control layer.

Tools and Materials

Common supplies include cedar shingles, a compatible weather-resistive barrier, corrosion-resistant siding nails, flashing, starter material, trim, and any specified furring strips or insect screening. Tools may include a tape measure, level, chalk line, square, utility knife, circular or hand saw, hammer or siding nailer, and personal protective equipment. The exact setup depends on the product and wall design.

Use fasteners recommended for the siding and exposure. Stainless steel or hot-dipped galvanized nails are commonly specified for cedar; ordinary uncoated steel can corrode, stain the wood, or lose holding power. Nail length must allow adequate penetration into the framing or other approved nail base while avoiding damage to concealed services. Fastener type, placement, and quantity should come from the shingle manufacturer and applicable code, not a generic rule of thumb.

How Cedar Shingle Siding Is Installed

Prepare and Protect the Work Area

Set up safe access and protect windows, landscaping, walkways, and nearby surfaces. Cutting cedar creates dust and small particles, so use suitable eye, hearing, and respiratory protection and follow tool instructions. Before cutting or nailing, check for wiring, plumbing, and other concealed hazards. Work from stable scaffolding or properly secured ladders; fall protection may be required depending on the work and site conditions.

Install the Water-Control Layers

Install the water-resistive barrier and flashing in the sequence required by the product instructions and wall design. In general, upper layers should lap over lower layers so water drains outward rather than behind them. Detail windows, doors, corners, utility penetrations, and roof intersections with compatible flashing. Do not rely on caulk alone to manage water at these locations. Sealants are maintenance items and should be used only where the design or manufacturer specifies them.

Set the Starter Course

A starter course provides the base for the first visible course and helps establish the siding’s lower edge. Its height and projection depend on the shingle profile and wall detail. Maintain the required clearance above soil, paving, roofs, decks, and other horizontal surfaces; the exact clearance is governed by code, product instructions, and site conditions. The lower edge should not trap water or sit in splashback. Add suitable screening where needed to discourage insects without blocking drainage.

Mark Exposure and Lay Out Courses

Exposure is the portion of each shingle left visible after the next course overlaps it. Use the manufacturer’s recommended maximum exposure for the product, shingle length, and intended use. Larger exposure leaves less overlap and can make the wall more vulnerable to water entry. Snap level reference lines around the wall so courses remain straight, and plan the layout around windows, doors, corners, and trim before fastening.

Stagger vertical joints between adjacent courses. Avoid lining up joints in neighboring courses, and select shingles so gaps, defects, or unusually narrow pieces do not create weak or conspicuous spots. Shingle spacing is product- and moisture-dependent. Follow the manufacturer’s guidance, particularly for green or higher-moisture shingles, which may shrink as they dry. Tight installation can cause buckling; excessive gaps can expose the backing layer.

Fasten Each Course Correctly

Install shingles in overlapping rows, fastening each piece in the locations and with the number of nails specified by its manufacturer. Nails should hold the shingle securely without being driven so deeply that they crush or split the wood. Keep fasteners out of areas that will remain exposed where possible, and make sure the next course covers them as intended. Avoid placing nails too near edges or in a way that prevents the upper shingle from lying flat.

For a power nailer, test the pressure and depth on spare material before production work. Overdriven or angled fasteners can damage shingles and may reduce holding performance. Hand nailing offers direct control but still requires consistent placement. If shingles split, buckle, or sit unevenly, correct the cause rather than hiding the defect under later courses.

Finish Corners, Openings, and the Top Edge

Outside and inside corners may use interwoven shingles, corner boards, or another approved detail. The selected approach should allow water to drain and should match the product instructions and design. At windows and doors, shingles must work with head, jamb, and sill flashing. Keep the bottom of the siding clear of horizontal ledges where water can collect, and do not cover weep paths or drainage openings.

At the top of the wall, use suitable flashing and trim to protect the edge and direct water away. Where siding meets a roof, use the roof-to-wall flashing design specified for the assembly, maintaining required clearances and drainage. Transitions to masonry, decks, gutters, or dissimilar materials need compatible details. These junctions are frequent sources of leaks, so professional review is prudent if their construction is uncertain.

Common Cedar Shingle Installation Mistakes

• Skipping flashing or the water-resistive barrier: Shingles shed most rain but are not a complete waterproof membrane.
• Using the wrong exposure: Excessive exposure reduces overlap and can increase water intrusion risk.
• Using unsuitable nails: Corroding or improperly placed fasteners can stain, loosen, or split shingles.
• Installing over damp or damaged walls: Trapped moisture can contribute to decay and hidden structural damage.
• Blocking drainage: Caulk, trim, or insect screening should not obstruct intended drainage and ventilation paths.
• Ignoring clearances: Siding too close to soil, roofs, or horizontal surfaces is more exposed to moisture and splashback.
• Skipping layout checks: Uneven courses and aligned joints can undermine both appearance and weather performance.

Cost, Timing, and DIY Considerations

Cedar shingle siding installation costs vary widely across the United States. Material grade, shingle type, wall height, access, local labor rates, removal and disposal of old siding, sheathing repairs, trim, flashing, and finish work all affect the total. Quotes should state what is included, including preparation, water-management details, cleanup, and painting or staining. Comparing only the price per square foot can overlook important differences in scope.

A straightforward wall may be within the reach of an experienced DIY installer, but the work requires accurate layout, safe access, and sound water-management details. Complex roof intersections, multiple stories, extensive rot, historic detailing, or uncertain wall assemblies increase the risk. A qualified siding contractor can inspect the substrate, explain the proposed flashing and drainage strategy, and provide a written scope. Check references, insurance, and applicable state or local licensing requirements.

Maintenance and Repair

Inspect cedar siding periodically and after severe storms. Look for loose, cracked, cupped, or missing shingles; failed sealant where specified; damaged flashing; and signs of water entry inside the home. Keep gutters working, direct downspouts away from the foundation, and trim vegetation so the wall can dry. Clean gently using methods appropriate for wood; aggressive pressure washing can erode the surface and force water behind the siding.

Replace damaged shingles promptly. A repair generally involves carefully removing the affected piece without harming surrounding shingles, checking the backing for moisture damage, and installing a matching replacement with compatible fasteners. Color and texture may differ from aged siding, especially if the existing wall has weathered. Follow finish instructions after repairs, and avoid coating over a damp or dirty surface.

Finish life varies with exposure, product, preparation, and maintenance, so no single recoating interval applies to every home. Follow the coating manufacturer’s inspection and maintenance guidance. Coastal exposure, intense sun, overhangs, tree cover, and moisture conditions can all affect how the siding ages. Regular inspection and prompt correction of drainage problems usually matter more than relying on appearance alone.

Reliable References

For project-specific requirements, consult the current instructions for the exact shingle and finish, the local building department, and the adopted edition of the building code. Helpful technical background is also available from the Real Cedar (Western Red Cedar Lumber Association), the USDA Forest Products Laboratory, and the U.S. Department of Energy for broader home-envelope and moisture-control information. Product guidance and local code requirements take precedence when they differ from general recommendations.